Wednesday 25th June
After such a long drive yesterday decided to stay at Parc Verger for another day. We had a lazy start to the day and eventually set off on the bike to the nearby town of Chalus forgetting that we were now on French time not Spanish and that all the shops and bars closed at 12pm! In any event Chalus was a big disappointment with very few amenities. The local chateau was only open to the public on Sundays and there was nowhere close enough to ride to so we decide to return to the site and to go into the little village close by to eat in the restaurant bar which we visited last year and which is owned by english speaking couple and also frequented by a number of Brits living locally. It wasn’t to be our day as when we arrived we discovered that the bar closes one day per week - on Wednesday! at least the weather was in our favour and the promised showers didn’t materialise so we sat outside until early evening .
Thursday 26th June
SAS graves at Rom |
Set off towards Poitiers on the first leg of our planned trip north to the Normandy beaches. En route we planned to visit Rom a small village where 35 SAS soldiers who were massacred by German troops in July 1944 are buried in the local cemetery . They had been working as saboteurs to disrupt the German reinforcements following the Normandy landings. They were betrayed and executed by Germans on Hitler’s instructions contrary to the rules of war. The graves were in a corner of the public cemetery but are maintained by Commonwealth War Graves commission. It was quite a moving experience reading the inscriptions on each headstone as they were all so very young when they died.
We continued on our planned route via Poitiers but as happened yesterday the sat nav took us off the main roads and our journey ended up taking much longer than planned. Eventually we decide to use a map and ignore the sat nav to get ourselves back onto the main route. As it was clear we would not reach Le Mans by nightfall we followed directions to a campsite and motorhome aire in Bauge which turned out to be exceptionally good. The aire is free and is situated next to the small and modern municipal campsite and a tennis club.
Friday 27th June
No water available on this aire so we headed towards Caen using old fashioned maps and ignoring the sat nav where it didn't agree with us! Stopped several times at pretty places en route for refreshments including frites at an Aire de repos. There were several heavy rain showers interspersed with sunny spells and our route took us from Bauge to Laval then to Mayennne and finally we bypassed Caen and Bayeux to end up on an aire close to the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach. We popped along to the cemetery in time for the evening flag lowering ceremony which was a little disappointing as it was performed by civilian staff instead of the ultra smart American servicemen we had expected.
Saturday 28th June
Left the Aire at around 9.30am and headed back to the American cemetery in the motorhome with the intention of looking around the modern museum which was completed in 2007. The museum was absolutely enthralling with a lot of filmed sequences and interactive exhibits and depicts the significance and meaning of Operation Overlord and honours the sacrifice of the WW2 generation .The Garden of the missing features engraved tablets which commemorate 1557 names of soldiers missing in action including two brothers from one family and bronze rosettes beside some of the names show that the remains were later recovered , identified and buried.. The memorial features a 22ft statue “The spirit of American youth rising from the waves” facing west toward the row upon row of precisely aligned headstones of white Lasa marble crosses and Stars of David set in ten grave plots. All of this overlooks the beach of Omaha. The sheer scale of the place is overwhelming and extremely moving. we were lucky enough to be able to take an English speaking guided tour of the cemetery. Only four of us turned up for the tour and the other two who were Americans had to leave after 20 minutes as they were part of a tour excursion which was leaving so we had the english guide all to ourselves for 45 minutes! we learned a lot which we would have missed had we been wandering on our own.
Sunset on the beach |
Continued from the cemetery along the coast to Grand Camp Maisie where we found a campsite and parked right next to the beach. Walked along the beach to the harbour in the evening . Very quiet but found a little bar on the sea front for a drink and a meal. returned to watch the tide coming in right up to the sea wall beside our motorhome (there are evacuation plans in the case of high seas) and watched a beautiful sunset.
Sunday 29th June
Peace sculpture |
We have reasonable wifi at a price so decide to book our ferry from a port as close as possible to our current location. Caen and Le Havre were pretty expensive but found a good deal sailing from Dieppe to Newhaven on Tuesday morning so decide to stay here at Grand Camp Maisie until tomorrow when we will drive along the coast to Dieppe ready for our early morning sailing on Tuesday.
Took a long walk up to Point Du Hoc where the German batteries overlooked Omaha beach and Chinese sculptor donated to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the invasion.